Watches & Wonders: A fair to remember

There were surprises aplenty including an appearance by Julia Roberts, who lent her star-power to Maison Chopard and its Journey to Sustainable Luxury programme which champions the use of ethical gold, steel and other materials. Chopard announced the exclusive use of its sustainable Lucent Steel in all its products and revealed an array of new models including an ultra-thin Alpine Eagle, Mille Miglia Chronograph and of course several stunning high jewellery collections alongside its Happy Hearts – it really is the brand with something for everyone.

With the Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons team back in the UAE from our jaunt to Geneva, it’s time to relive some of the highlights and anticipate the imminent arrival of the novelties on our shores. We feel like time seems to move faster and faster, but in the watch industry things really are moving faster –with shorter windows between the time a watch is unveiled and its availability in our boutiques here in the Middle East, there’s not long to wait.

“We have seen so many amazing products during our time at Watches and Wonders,” says Mohammad Seddiqi, CCO of Seddiqi Holding. “Independent brands such as DOXA, Greubel Forsey and Urwerk released very interesting novelties. Urwerk is celebrating its 25th anniversary and released the UR-102 Reloaded at Watches and Wonders. We have been happy to be refreshing our relationships with our partners and friends. We also met new brands that might cater to the requirements of our clients in the Middle East... We’ve also had some very interesting discussions about the next UAE limited-editions that will be launched during Dubai Watch Week. I can’t say anything more about that now – you’ll have to stay tuned and wait and see!”

Colourful dials are always welcome and 2023 didn’t’ disappoint – both with elegant single-colour dials, and headline-grabbing multicoloured creations courtesy of Rolex – the watch industry reflecting the appetite for fun and playfulness. Pink in various hues is having a moment – Patek Philippe, Chopard and TAG Heuer all revealed watches that feature this playful, bold colour. We also noticed a trend for smaller watches – many brands are doing away with the idea of watches for men or women specifically, and having timepieces that can be worn by a greater range of wrist sizes means more choice for everyone. It’s not always easy to discern ‘trends’ in an industry that moves at a far more considered and refined pace than most, but with an air of optimism and a desire for fun, adventure and travel defining our times right now, it seems inevitable that the same spirit will infuse the world of watchmaking.

An industry centered around the art and science of timekeeping and the importance of time itself isn’t likely to let an anniversary go by without celebrating it and 2023 is a year with many cakes being cut and novelties released. TAG Heuer celebrated the 60th anniversary of the TAG Heuer Carrera with multiple Carrera releases.

Rolex also marked 60 years of an icon this year – which means the Cosmograph Daytona got a celebratory redesign. Rolex never fails to make a big impression and its watches invariably set the tone for industry trends and styles. There was colour a-plenty courtesy of the dials in the Oyster Perpetual and Day-Date collections, and Rolex being Rolex, its Yacht-Master, Sky-Dweller, GMT-Master and Explorer collections delivered exceptional updates. While Oris presented a Propilot X Kermit edition – can you guess what colour the dial is?

Redefining contemporary watchmaking, Ulysse-Nardin returned to its seminal Freak collection with the Freak One, the iconic ‘hands-free’ watch that smashed the definition of modern watchmaking. Another genre-defying brand, HYT presented the HYT Conical Tourbillon created with Prix Gaia recipient Eric Coudray – its signature liquid mechanics continuing to astonish and impress.

The history of travel and exploration is interwoven with the earliest timekeeping instruments, so it’s no surprise that it continues to provide rich fodder for inspiration today.

Beneath the skies and under the ocean, meanwhile, Bell & Ross, whose HydroMax set a world record for water-tightness in 1997 (reaching an incredible 11,000 metres) continued to push boundaries with the professional-grade BR 03-92 Diver White Bronze – stunning style meets matchless functionality. Another intrepid trailblazer on land and water, DOXA has a rich history of producing quality watches for military and civilian use – its DOXA Army Stainless Steel and DOXA Army Rubber were a rugged, stylish and accessible launch at Watches and Wonders this year. Finally, a modern take on Tudor’s iconic Black Bay 58 features a 37mm case that proves that great things come in small sizes – if you love diver watches but are hankering after something smaller on the wrist, perhaps this is the perfect partner for you.